Saturday 10th January 2026: Ecuador - finally


A few days ago a Facebook memory came up from January 2020.  We,d just got back from a three week holiday in St Kitts and Joan had already bought guidebooks for Ecuador, planning our Christmas 2020 adventure.

Well, what a year that was, and little did we know world travel for us would be put on hold for four years.

Since then, Ecuador has destabilised due to narcotic gangs and some areas are no longer safe to go to, but the lure of the smoking Andean volcanoes and the magical Galapagos Islands was still there.

So, in June, we took the plunge and bought flights to Quito.  In between there have been some petrol blockades, four controversial referenda and night time curfews to muddy the waters, but our resolve was steadfast. For the record the four votes were:

- to allow foreign countries (read the USA)  to have permanent military bases in Ecuador, including the Galapagos

- ending state funding for political parties, which would disadvantage parties from poorer communitiess, including indigenous groups

-- effectively cutting the number of elected members in the National Assembly by half, benefitting urban areas over rural ones

- rewiting the constitution.  Ecuador's 2008 constitution gives rights to Pacha Mama or Mother Earth.  Removal of this would open up the country to more mining and extraction.

Much to the chagrin of right-wing President Noboa, the Ecuadorian people voted no on all four counts.

We had bought new suitcases, half packed and cleaned the house when Storm Goretti loomed on the horizon.  An explosive cyclo-genesis was due to hit the Midlands on the very day we were set to drive to Heathrow.

We have lived in Whaley long enough to know that when snow falls, it can be very bad and deep. In 2010, we were stuck in the village for days and had to retire to the Black Horse for solace.

Joan debated going to Heathrow the night before just to ensure we got there.  Fuchsia was put in the kennel a day earlier than planned and we thought about that for the cats too.  But as the storm approached, the weather outlook improved so we stuck with our plans to go to London on Friday, dropping the Meezers at the cattery en route.

A quick glance out the window on Friday morning revealed a couple of centimetres of snowfall.  Nevertheless, we set off earlier than planned.  Leaving the village was icy but passable and we thought it would be clear once we hit the Ramper. We headed through Bolsover which was a lot more treacherous and had deeper snow.  A lorry was stuck at Town End and tractors with snowploughs were out.


We made it down to Junction 29A, and the M1 was running with 2 and a half lanes clear.  We took it steadier than some.  A visit to see my friend, Margaret, at Little Eaton was postponed as her road was too slippy  So we dropped off the cats and headed south to the airport.  There was quite heavy snow on the Nottinghamshire/Leicestershire border, but eventually it diminished and roads were clear.  Our route to Heathrow got us arrived at T2 some 7.5 hours ahead of our flight.  The bag drop off didn't open till 6 and there was nowhere to sit that wasn't a pub  or a coffee shop.  So we retired to the pub and managed to keep a table for three hours on the back of one beer, a meal and a coffee.

Bags finally dropped off we headed to an airport lounge for drinks and nibbles.  


We were a bit caught out by the early boarding of the plane and even more so when we realised the Gate was a 15 minute walk away.

We're not sure if we've become less tolerant of being uncomfortable or whether airlines are pushing in more and more seats, but flying seems to be less pleasurable.  What was once an occasion, has been downgraded to a cattle-like herding.

We had booked "plus" seats with extra legroom, but the seats were so narrow, you had to hunch your shoulders for most of the flight and poor Kevin had a very invasive neighbour with sharp elbows.  Neither of us could relax and we stayed awake most of the 11 hour flight.  Avianca also do not cater for special diets so if you're Gluten free, lactose free or vegan (like Joan), there was no dinner or breakfast.  The  film and TV selection was rubbish at well.  But somehow, you just bunker down and come out the other side, in Bogata at 3.45 am.


We'd had been upgraded to the new Avianca business class for the short hop to Quito.  Front row of the plane.

For this you get a wide seat, a bottle of water, nuts and fruit juice, plus a note from the head steward. 


It was a heck of a lot more civilised, though they draw these curtain across the aisle to separate business from normal class.  Quite odd!


Our driver was there to collect us.  The weather was 17 Celcius and overcast.  Steven drove us to our apartment in the old part of Quito.  He seemed unconvinced about our plan to travel by coach as was Esteban our host.  

By this time we were exhausted and hadn't slept for 36 hours.  Tired, smelly, facing jet lag (5 hour difference) and possible altitude sickness, we decided to find a supermarket and have an early tea.

We're staying in a restored colonial house a stone's throw from the grand centre. A decent supermarket was a few minutes walk away.  


Being a Saturday, the streets were buzzing with street sellers shouting and promoting their wares.  The shops are cavernous and often have barriers at the door so the customers cannot enter, and instead look at the wares from a distance and point at or shout what they want to buy.

Quito is the second highest Capital city in the world at 2850 metres so the air is thin.  We took our time walking.  There were some old, decrepit but fine buildings but we decided on an early dinner at home and to save the sightseeing for tomorrow.  We were also aware, that though the old town is safe during the day, like many cities, it becomes a different place at night.  The security system to get into our apartment is quite elaborate.  And here, Ecuador, as its name suggests, day and night are roughly equal so it begins to darken around six.

The town is hilly and allegedly dominated by Volcan Pichincha, but the low skies shrouded the hilltops so there's little of the surrounding geology to see.

We both react to altitude in different ways and Joan initially gets insomnia so that's why she's writing this now whilst Kevin snoozes away.

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