171218: In search of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid
Whereas the dawn chorus in Sucre was the neighbourhood dogs, In Potosi it seems to be crazy lorry drivers who think it's Ok to blast their horns at 4 am outside our hotel bedroom window. It rained overnight and at breakfast we were surprised to see snow on Cerro Rico.
So we're moving on. Tupiza is about 300 km from Potosi. There are coaches between the two but the lass in the tourist Information suggested that a faster way was to catch a long distance taxi from the Old Bus terminal which is metres from our hotel.
The system seems chaotic but works very efficiently. We hauled our cases uphill to a corner opposite the bus station. Immediately drivers descended on us and asked where were going. When we said Tupiza, one guy grabbed our cases and started loading it on the top of his people carrier. The drivers tout loudly for business and when the vehicle is full, they set off. We had to fill in a form first and pay a fee of approx. £8 each.
We were joined by Carlos, who spoke excellent English, lived in China and was a cattle management person originally from Arequipa in Peru who was heading to Argentina. There was an old Auntie in traditional dress and a young lad in slashed jeans. Quite an eclectic mixe dof passengers! Our driver was a bit cavalier and the seat belts in the back had been removed. He pipped at goats, llamas, children.... anything that got in his way. On the rubbish tips on the edge of Potosi, pigs were snouting. Somehow the three other passengers seemed to be able to sleep the whole way whilst we winced at his driving.
Three hours later and still alive to tell the tale, we were dropped off in Tupiza, a small own once made rich by silver mines and now the starting point for tours to the remoter parts of the Bolivian altiplano. It's other claim to fame is that a certain Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid were killed nearby after ambushing a local silver mine's pay roll.
We were dropped off near the bus station and our hotel was less than two minutes away. The owner greeted us warmly and offered us four different rooms. (I think we are the only guests.) In England we would call the hotel boutique and the reception was second to none, and, for the first time in Bolivia, in English. We needed to buy some stuff so were we advised where to go. Tupiza is a two street town and to be honest we were much more comfortable here than the big cities.
We took a walk to the local mirador, where there is a statue of Christ. It was sad to see it was vandalised, littered with beer and pop bottles and obviously a place for relieving oneself (from the smell.) It is a real shame. The countryside here is spectacular but people ruin it.
We also walked down to the train station where the twice weekly WaraWara train was loading. No two minute stop off here. More like 2 or 3hours.
The streets have put-puts as taxis. We found the best vegetarian food serving restaurant according to TripAdvisor but despite pages of offerings, only served pizza. We ordered a Pisco Sour - no. An enchilada - no. Chilean wine - no. It took about half an hour for the drinks to arrive. (There were four people in the restaurant including us.) When the beer arrived the glass was badly cracked.
Meanwhile outside the mother of all storms had hit the town and the streets quickly flooded with rainwater. Quite spectacular.
We could moan about the slow service but it meant the storm has passed over by the time we headed home. No blogging now for about four days as we are heading into the altiplano.....
So we're moving on. Tupiza is about 300 km from Potosi. There are coaches between the two but the lass in the tourist Information suggested that a faster way was to catch a long distance taxi from the Old Bus terminal which is metres from our hotel.
The system seems chaotic but works very efficiently. We hauled our cases uphill to a corner opposite the bus station. Immediately drivers descended on us and asked where were going. When we said Tupiza, one guy grabbed our cases and started loading it on the top of his people carrier. The drivers tout loudly for business and when the vehicle is full, they set off. We had to fill in a form first and pay a fee of approx. £8 each.
We were joined by Carlos, who spoke excellent English, lived in China and was a cattle management person originally from Arequipa in Peru who was heading to Argentina. There was an old Auntie in traditional dress and a young lad in slashed jeans. Quite an eclectic mixe dof passengers! Our driver was a bit cavalier and the seat belts in the back had been removed. He pipped at goats, llamas, children.... anything that got in his way. On the rubbish tips on the edge of Potosi, pigs were snouting. Somehow the three other passengers seemed to be able to sleep the whole way whilst we winced at his driving.
Three hours later and still alive to tell the tale, we were dropped off in Tupiza, a small own once made rich by silver mines and now the starting point for tours to the remoter parts of the Bolivian altiplano. It's other claim to fame is that a certain Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid were killed nearby after ambushing a local silver mine's pay roll.
We were dropped off near the bus station and our hotel was less than two minutes away. The owner greeted us warmly and offered us four different rooms. (I think we are the only guests.) In England we would call the hotel boutique and the reception was second to none, and, for the first time in Bolivia, in English. We needed to buy some stuff so were we advised where to go. Tupiza is a two street town and to be honest we were much more comfortable here than the big cities.
We took a walk to the local mirador, where there is a statue of Christ. It was sad to see it was vandalised, littered with beer and pop bottles and obviously a place for relieving oneself (from the smell.) It is a real shame. The countryside here is spectacular but people ruin it.
We also walked down to the train station where the twice weekly WaraWara train was loading. No two minute stop off here. More like 2 or 3hours.
The streets have put-puts as taxis. We found the best vegetarian food serving restaurant according to TripAdvisor but despite pages of offerings, only served pizza. We ordered a Pisco Sour - no. An enchilada - no. Chilean wine - no. It took about half an hour for the drinks to arrive. (There were four people in the restaurant including us.) When the beer arrived the glass was badly cracked.
Meanwhile outside the mother of all storms had hit the town and the streets quickly flooded with rainwater. Quite spectacular.
We could moan about the slow service but it meant the storm has passed over by the time we headed home. No blogging now for about four days as we are heading into the altiplano.....
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