Monday 19th January 2026: Termas El Salado

The name gives it away - Banos.   The town is famous for its hot springs coming off the Tungurahua volcano.  The most famous baths are near us but the more attractive baths are up a ravine a couple of kilometres out of town.

We caught a cab there which cost $2 and entrance to the complex was $4 each.  A bathing cap is also compulsory and those cost another $1 each.  You put your belongings in a plastic crate and they are stored away and you are given a wrist band.

The complex consisted of several pools varying in depth.  Some were clear water and these were very cold.  The thermal baths were a sulphurous yellow. We're not sure why as we have been to other natural springs and they have been clear.  

As it was a Monday, the baths were quiet and we could loll about without much disturbance.  We are always aware that when you're in the water, you don't feel the heat of the sun so we covered up with sun cream.  Of course, in Ecuador, the sun is always directly above, so we had to be especially careful.

It was also reassuring that one of our guidebooks described the baths as one of the worst places to be if the volcano goes up.  Nice!

Despite the yellowness, it was relaxing.  There is something quite primordial about bathing in warm, sulphurous water on the side of a volcano.  The water must have been quite saline as it was quite easy to float.

Aware of the sun, we moved to a part of the baths that had been designed to be in shade.  A local interrogated us about where we were from and how long we were in the country.

By the side of the pools was the river that fed them.  Funny enough, that wasn't yellow.

In all we stayed around four hours.   There was no WiFi so we could not call a cab so we walked downhill to the main road into Banos and there we hailed a lift.

Back at the apartment we both felt "washed out."  Our muscles had gone to sleep.

Banos was a different town on a Monday.  A lot of the tourist attractions and restaurants were closed.  There were no mad road trains or chivas blaring out music and the streets were quieter.  We were glad we had seen it at its crazy best.

For dinner, we headed out to a Caribbean restaurant called Sativa Studio Cafe.  It was tucked behind a shop and we basically ate on the drive.  (You can sit inside but...)

 

Joan had a Tequila Sunrise and Kevin, a craft beer.  As we were famished from the baths, we ordered a couple of appetizers before our main meal.  Big mistake!  The portions were huge.  We had home made hummus and pitta bread plus patacones, a Columbian snack made from twice fried green plantain.  They were delicious and surprisingly savoury.  Joan has spotted that a shop selling African food ingredients has opened up in Shirebrook and they sell plantain.  Expect these to be made at home.

By the time the main came, we were already full.   Kevin had a house burger.  None of those disgusting fake meet things we get at home, but home made patties made from pulses and gently spiced.

Joan has never had a humita - a traditional South American food.  It is usually made of pounded maize, wrapped in a corn husk and steamed.  Here, we think it came in a banana leaf, but as well as maize they had green potato and Yuca (cassava) humitas as well.  It was a bit of a carb fest, but smoky and delicious.

A doggy bag had to be asked for, and we waddled back, bellies fit to burst to our lodgings.

The restaurant dog.

It was later than we usually stay out and sellers were setting up food stalls on the corners.